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This is a blood smear from a White’s Tree Frog, Litoria caerulea. Amphibian RBC’s are nucleated which is one of the most striking differences from mammal blood. The cell full of pink granules is an eosinophil.
meet Ba’Gul !
my new Morelia Viridis / Green Tree Python .
He behaves like a corn snake when being handled, i only did it once but i noticed that he’s a very calm animal. i think im in love >.<
Love that set up!
Gorgeous set up.
Question with 3 notes
inside-of-my-thoughts asked: Hi, I'm going to college for a bachelors in biology and have to do a capstone poster presentation on Chrysosporium anamorph of Nannizziopsis vriesii. I am having a hard time finding out about their physiological process and also a phylogenetic tree. Any pointers or even general information will help me out alot and is appreciated.
Very cool topic to pick. This disease is abbreviated CANV and is also known as yellow fungus disease. Mostly in the U.S. it seems to affect bearded dragons but has been found in other reptiles as well. Infected reptiles often get patches of thickened yellow skin that flakes or peels off. It can also appear as dark brown/black areas of skin as well.
It is very contagious and often spread throughout entire collections of animals. It can be very difficult to treat and is usually fatal. Treatment usually consists of surgical debridement of infected tissue as well oral anti-fungal medications.
As for their physiological processes and phlyogenetic tree, I am not the best source for this info. The various ways fungi are organized makes my head spin and this particular fungus has jumped around quite a bit. You might check out the Journal of Herpetological Medicine and Surgery. If you are at a university you should have free access to various journals through their library system.
Anonymous asked: As both a vet and reptile keeper, what is your opinion on bioactive substrates? I want to consider them for my bearded dragon for the habitat and enrichment benefits but worry about safety. I really dislike the unnatural and behaviorally limiting aspects of solid substrate. Unfortunately, the topic of substrate is so widely polarized it's hard to get a good feeling for just what is an acceptable risk level. Temp/humidity are my top priority, but I want to accommodate behavior and comfort too.
I think bioactive substrates can be really great. As long as you are very careful about where you are getting your organisms from there shouldn’t be any issues.
A bearded dragon habitat should not be humid enough to support a bioactive substrate though. Springtails and other detritis dwelling organisms require fairly high humidity and as far as I know there are not any commercially available species that could survive the heat and dryness required to keep beardies happy and healthy.
Question with 12 notes
Anonymous asked: What are your thoughts regarding the use of betadine with reptiles? I often see people recommending it for snakes for minor skin injuries, but I don't know anything about it. Is it safe for snakes? How does it work? What's the best way it can be used, or should it not be used at all?
Betadine is great if it used appropriately. It is safe to use in reptiles of all kinds but it really is only good for minor, non-penetrating wounds. It should be diluted out in saline and then used to gently lavage wounds or soak an animal in. For pet owners I say they can have it on hand as long as it is not used as a substitute for veterinary care. You can clean a wound with it until you can get your animal to a vet but only if you know for sure it is safe to do so.
Question with 12 notes
Anonymous asked: How do you do reptile fecal tests? I would like to know your "process" for both tests [smear and float]
First a fresh fecal sample is obtained. Sometimes owners bring one in or I have to get one via enema or by gently inserting a catheter tip into the cloaca to stimulate a bowel movement.
For a smear I put a drop of saline on a slide and then take the wooden end of a swab and touch it to the sample and then mix it with the saline and smear it across the slide and let it dry. This is then stained. If you keep look at it in the drop without smearing and drying you can see motile bacteria and other organisms.
About a gram of feces is also put into a centrifuge tube and mixed with sheather’s solution or zinc sulfate depending on what I am looking for. I mix it all together and then fill the tube up until a reverse meniscus is formed and put a cover slip on this. Then the tubes are spun for 10 minutes and allowed to sit for a bit. The cover slips are removed gently and put on a slide and then looked at under the microscope.
Post with 41 notes
I love that I have been getting so many questions from people interested in all things veterinary, exotics, and everything else. I hope this continues because I enjoy it. What I am going to have to stop are the questions about specific illnesses in pets.
This is for multiple reasons but the top ones are 1) I do this for a living and while I don’t mind giving free advice, asking me for a diagnosis and treatment options for a pet without paying me is unfair. 2) There is no possible way I can diagnose and treat via the internet, I have to be able to see an animal in person and any vet that tells you otherwise is not a very good one.
If you are so concerned about your animal that you need to post it on the internet, you need to make a vet appointment. This is the only way your pet is going to get the proper treatment they need. Waiting for responses from the online community only delays medical treatment and could make the situation worse. Also there is no way to guarantee the information you are getting is correct. Honestly 99% of the info I see offered to pet owners on Tumblr alone is incorrect and some of it could actually be harmful.
Please keep asking me questions about animal care in general, diseases, how medications work, how procedures are done, or anything else for that matter. But I will no longer be answering questions about specific sick or injured pets, if I see them I will delete them. If your animal is sick it needs to see a veterinarian
In dogs who are prone to severe ear infections, such as cocker spaniels and bulldogs, the constant inflammation and infection in the ear can result in thickening of the ear skin and cartilage over time. The abnormally thickened tissue makes it harder to treat the ear infection inside, and the inflammation continues. The upper ear still has an opening into the ear canal, though the opening is swollen and difficult to insert medication into. The lower ear, however, is an end-stage ear. No amount of anti-inflammatory steroids or medications or antibiotics will fix that ear now. At this stage, surgery such as a total ear canal ablation to remove the ruined ear canal and bones of the middle ear is warranted. This option was discussed with this owner, but they have declined at this time.
This is why it is so important to go to the vet when you first notice a problem and not wait.
Question with 15 notes
stonetemplepilots asked: I suspect my iguana may be female, I've been reading that spaying them can be a good option, however I don't want to do that really... Besides the cost, I think it would be hard on her... What are your opinions on the spaying of iguanas? Will it be worse for her health if I DONT spay her? She's only 3 now, so this is all in the future, if it turns out she is female.
Iguanas reach sexual maturity around 18 months of age so you should be able to tell if she is female by now and she may start producing eggs. I personally don’t advocate for spaying iguanas unless we have a history of a problem. If you are providing the proper husbandry for her she should have no problem laying a clutch of eggs. That being said things can happen and you should be prepared to get her to a vet if she becomes egg bound or has any other reproductive issues.
A skilled reptile veterinarian should have no problems with an iguana OVH and it shouldn’t be “hard” on her. Sometimes once the ovaries are removed females can become aggressive for awhile because their adrenal glands are producing testosterone and there is no estrogen to balance it out. Usually this goes away on its own but it can be upsetting for owners.
I would make an appointment with your vet and get a wellness exam done so that any problems can be found now and discuss the concerns you have and they will be able to guide you in the right direction.
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